The history of Spain is inextricably linked to the Arabs and Moors who, it must be said, civilised the place. The brought great advances in architecture, art and personal hygiene. (The indigenous Spaniards and the Visigoths didn't bath much before then.) They invaded only those parts they wanted, avoided those they couldn't get to or those that were too cold, and waged constant war against those who resisted (mostly the Portuguese). Once successful, they were remarkably tolerant of others—Christians and Jews.
Nowhere is this to be seen more than in Sevllle and Granada. Their old cities have many traces of the time: Mosques converted to Christian churches, design elements everywhere, and even old synagogues. And this despite attempts to erase their legacy. One can only presume that when the cleverest minds in the Christian kingdoms beheld the splendour of Arab and Moorish architecture, they threw up their hands, realising that it was pointless to try to exceed them... so they converted the to Christian places of worship and dwellings.
Real Alcazares is one such example. It's an Arab palace with Christian additions. Like others of its kind, it is adorned with intricate decoration—portraits of people (and perhaps an living creature) being forbidden under Islam. The beautiful, but often over-the-top, filigree of the Renaissance, Baroque and Rococo periods is garish by comparison. In any case, the latter came from elsewhere in Europe and a few hundred years after the Moors were defeated. So beloved by the Caliph was Granada that he surrendered rather than see his city destroyed.
Cordoba was once the capital of Spain, or al-Andalus as the Arabs called it. It was an important sanctuary of Islam in the West. The Arabs and, later, the Moors, introduced important advances to Spain by way of agriculture, architecture, culture and education and personal hygiene. Our guide Valerie said it was likely the Visigoths before them bathed twice in their lives: at birth and before marriage!
We went on a guided tour of the old city, starting at the Jewish quarter to the Cathedral of Cordoba.
The Cathedral site was built by the Visigoths but destroyed and built over by the Muslim invaders. Despite that emphatic expression of their dominance, they presided over a very tolerant society which allowed Jews and Christians to live freely. When Ferdinand II kicked them out in 1236, he and his minions weren't anywhere near as reasonable.
The Mosque was started in 785 and extended over the next 400 years. It became the largest mosque in the known world, overtaking that in Damascus though it was largely modelled on it. When the Christians reconquered the city, the converted the mosque to a cathedral and built many chapels at the walls and the main Chapel and choir in the centre. The architecture is amazing and the decorations are beautiful. It must be said that they're much more tasteful than the Catholic Chapels built over parts of them. Given the strength of their "faith", it is remarkable that 80% of the mosque survives in its original form.
The Cathedral site was built by the Visigoths but destroyed and built over by the Muslim invaders. Despite that emphatic expression of their dominance, they presided over a very tolerant society which allowed Jews and Christians to live freely. When Ferdinand II kicked them out in 1236, he and his minions weren't anywhere near as reasonable.
The Mosque was started in 785 and extended over the next 400 years. It became the largest mosque in the known world, overtaking that in Damascus though it was largely modelled on it. When the Christians reconquered the city, the converted the mosque to a cathedral and built many chapels at the walls and the main Chapel and choir in the centre. The architecture is amazing and the decorations are beautiful. It must be said that they're much more tasteful than the Catholic Chapels built over parts of them. Given the strength of their "faith", it is remarkable that 80% of the mosque survives in its original form.
We got up early this morning for a bus trip from Madrid to Seville. Of course, we didn�t have breakfast so a coffee and muffin from Starbucks ahd to do. We have visitors from Colombia, Venezuela, Mexico, Mauritius, New Zealand, and the US. Everyone is very nice, though we can better judge those who speak a little English (remarkably many of them).
Our guide is a very entertaining woman called Valerie. She explained how in Spanish nothing is said directly. Her example was English: it is raining, Spanish: it might be raining. I�m not sure whether to believe this but her Spanish commentary is longer than the English!
Madrid is a bit like my previous experience of Spanish cities (mainly Murcia and Cartegena): very spread out and patchy on the outskirts. We soon descended into a valley which appears to be the "bread basket" of the city and then into the state of Castillo-La Mancha, the "dry lands". It is indeed very dry. Unlike Australia where one sees dry river and creek beds, here there don�t seem to be as many rivers and creeks anyway. Valerie explained that despite this La Mancha�s main industry is agriculture. They�ve evidently figured out how to do it: a rotation of potatoes, corn and sunflowers in Winter, Spring and Summer respectively. There�s also a lot of wine, which due to the lack of water and the heat, never needs assisted fermentation or additives to make a decent wine.
After the Sierra Mareno we crossed into Andlucia, the "green lands". At this time of year, they�re not very green, but still it�s an improvement over La Mancha. Crops here are similar, with the addition of a lot more olive oil. There are olive trees everywhere!
Instead of just going to London and Sweden, I decided to go to Spain since I had an exttra week before Lou and Daniel arrived and have to come home a week early.
What a start to the trip. Melbourne to Kuala Lumpur, KL to London, London to Madrid. The flight from Melbourne had me next to a young lad you decided, perhaps on his first trip away from Mum and Dad, to get into the red wine, some of which he spilled on my clothes. Then to London I was next to a chap who spread out to take a bit of the room of passengers either die.
Someone didn�t pass immigration in KL so the flight was 2 hours later taking off. I just made it onto the flight to Madrid and of course my luggage didn�t. Justr as well I packed some extra clothes in my carry-on. Now, you would have thought that there was more than one flight to Madrid a day, but BA decided to send it ont eh same flight the next day. Ass delivery only occurred adfter 8pm, things were a bit touch and go as Mum and I were leaving on a bus tour the next day.
Speaking of Mum, it was pure luck that she found me because neither of us had been able to find the way to the Madrid Metro station in the airport. Still once we got there it was easy to find our way to Gran Via.
We then spent an hour looking for the hostal. Of course, Google Maps had it completely wrong. And then, when we got there we were told that there place had gone broke and was closed. My advice: if you�re going to do things opn the cheap, be very very careful. The "caretaker" rang another hostal whose ownere arrived to escort us. He doesn�t speak any English and we speak almost no Spanish so a great time was had communicating with him.
We decided to sleep for a couple of hours and then go out to find something to eat. But that turned into 7 hours and then 7 more, so we were pretty hungry by the morning.
To easde my communication with Iberia regarding the lost baggage I decided to get a SIM card for my phone. It was remarkably easy, and I also got an international call card in the process. So now I can call home to Lou until she and Daniel leave.
On Sunday, after hearing that my luggage would indeed arrive that day, Mum and I headed off to the Museo del Prado. Lou, Daniel and I have been there before and I really wantred to get back. I remember talking to a colleague who asked "So which famous paintings do they have there?" I said, "All of them, I think". It�s really astounding.
After the Prado we went back to the hostal, had a rest and then headed out to see the Ballet Flamenco de Madrid for a production of Carmen, performed to live Cuban-influenced flamenco and recordings of Bizet�s music. It was most enjoyable.